Rarotonga Tours

On Monday morning, our first order of business was to make ourselves legal. This was something that should have been done when we landed, but we either misunderstood, or the cabin crew failed to inform us correctly (much more likely) about getting a Covid card. The system in Cook Islands is much like that in New Zealand – you’re supposed to check in everywhere you go. Unlike New Zealand, however, YOU have the QR code and the establishments – shops, restaurants etc. – have the scanner, usually a mobile phone. We didn’t have QR codes, so first thing we went to the tourist information office, filled out a few details, and became legal. Phew! That said, the system doesn’t seem to be used at quite the same level as in New Zealand. In fact, the only people we ever saw checking in was…us. Some places didn’t even seem to have anywhere to check in with. Hey ho, we did our bit.

We then headed back to Muri to join Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruise. This is a half-day trip which we did last time we were in Raro, and enjoyed immensely then. It involves getting aboard one of three glass-bottomed boats, then sailing out to an area where the GTs – giant trevally – hang out in the lagoon. The water’s a bit deeper here, and there’s coral as well. The GTs are considered inedible due to their diet, which is probably why they’re so abundant inside the lagoon. We were soon snorkelling with them, and the crew feed them bits of fish, which they race to find. Anyone who gets between a trevally and its lunch soon knows about it! They’re extremely fast swimmers, and they know to hang out there for food, so there’s plenty to see. There were other, smaller, reef fish about in plenty, including a pair of moray eels. We didn’t see any turtles, unfortunately.

After an hour’s snorkelling, we made our way ashore for lunch and the show. Lunch was cooked for us by two of the boat’s captains, and was traditional island barbecue of fish with various salads – potato, pawpaw, coleslaw etc. Afterwards, Captain Fabulous (our boat’s captain) and his band entertained us with songs old and new, gave a demonstration of how to tie a sarong for both women and men, and finally told us about the coconut tree, the “tree of life” of the islands. He told us how every part of the tree is used, showed us how to open a coconut, and Captain Smack Sparrow climbed a coconut tree for our benefit. He is the two-time winner of the Islands coconut competition, which involves climbing, collecting and opening coconuts in the fastest time, so he was in fact slowing it down for our demonstration. Afterwards we went for another swim off the beach, before sailing back to their mooring.

Captain Fabulous demonstrating his coconuts

On the beach

In the evening we set out to find a bar on the other side of the island to watch the sun set. After a bit of a false start, we found the place – Shipwreck Hut – and had cocktails as the sun went down. We drove back to town for dinner at Trader Jack’s – we shared a plate of sashimi, and Fijian fish curry. This is a non-spicy curry, but they handily provide you with some chopped chilis to add so you can make it to your own spiciness. I made the schoolboy error of adding the lot, and after a short while fishing half of them out again – they were pretty fiery chilis! But tasty.

I love to watch the sun go down

On Tuesday, we’d booked a reef cruise for the afternoon, so in the morning we headed into town to do some shopping. For me, this was centred on the T-Shirt Factory, who, despite their name, sell all manner of clothing. I picked up another “been to Rarotonga” t-shirt, and a couple of floral shirts. We then headed into a black pearl emporium where Nicola acquired some bling. We got some lunch at The Beachcomber café, then drove around to the main port, from where our cruise was leaving. The vessel is a semi-submersible, with glass panels in the keel, so you can see the underwater world without getting wet. We went past the wreck of the RMS Matai, which sank on the reef in 1916, then further out to see more giant trevally, as well as other reef fish and coral outside the main reef. Again, no sharks or turtles made their presence known to us.We were able to observe from the glass-bottomed part of the boat, but none of my photos through the thick glass came out in any acceptable way.

Giant trevally

Wreck of the RMS Marai

In the evening we planned to go to Charlie’s pub, but when we got there, (a) it looked too busy, and (b) the staff were hurriedly updating a whiteboard with an ever-growing list of dishes that were no longer available. We did a quick volte-face and went to Rickshaw Thai restaurant instead, which was pretty much as it was the last time we went there five years ago, with the exception that they no longer serve Matutu beer. The brewery has sadly closed.

The next day the weather forecast wasn’t looking too flash, so we decided it would be a good day to take the inland safari tour. We were picked up from our bach and joined the rest of the group in two Land Rovers, and toured around the island, mostly on the inner ring-road system with the occasional break onto the main road. As we went our guides informed us about local flora and crops, as well as the history of the island. We got out at the Garden of Seven Stones, which celebrates the seven vaka (canoes) that left Rarotonga and made it to New Zealand. Our main guide told us the story of how the islands were first discovered by Europeans and the events that transpired, which included eating the captain’s girlfriend alive. Fun times!

Explaining history at the marae

We also visited Rarotonga’s only waterfall, which has changed substantially since we were last here: it is now the site of a water purification plant for the whole island, thus cleaning and regulating the water for everyone, making it drinkable and the supply more reliable. Rarotonga is entirely dependent on rainfall for water, and this system, jointly funded by New Zealand and China, has had huge benefits for the island. If only they could come and do the same for Wellington!

Papua (Wigmore's) Waterfall