We’re off on our adventures again. In the wee small hours, we took a taxi to Wellington Airport, thence to Auckland, Singapore and finally London Gatwick, arriving on Wednesday morning. We flew on a combination of Air New Zealand and Singapore Airlines, to maximise our airpoints and minimise exposure to the Middle East. We then took a taxi to the Imperial Hotel in Hythe.
Hythe is a small town on the Kent coast, an original member of the Cinque Ports which were once an important trading federation. As with Sandwich, the river silted up and the town is now a little further inland. It dates back to medieval days and has many old buildings.
We visited the church of St. Leonards, which has a crypt with an ossuary, open to the public for the princely sum of £5 each; we were able to admire the bones of some 800 people from the middle ages. The volunteer working there told us about the history and the studies that have been done on the bones, especially the skulls, pointing out some that had been injured and regrown, the state of health of their teeth, and the incidence of malaria-induced anaemia due to the nearby Romney Marshes and their mosquitoes.
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| I see dead people |
Whilst there we noticed some of the local flora…was not local. There was a ti kouka (cabbage tree), harakeke flax and nikau palm planted in the garden of the house next door to the church. We asked the volunteer and she told us that the house had belonged to a senior police officer in the 19th century who had gone to New Zealand, had a disagreement with the government, and returned after five years…presumably brining these plants back with him, as they looked pretty well-established! You go halfway around the world and…
We also explored the Royal Military Canal, which was built to defend against invasion by Napoleon in 1805-1809. One of the areas that was vulnerable to attack was through the Romney Marshes, so they built the canal and rampart as a defensive structure. Nowadays it’s a pleasant waterway; you can hire a boat and row up and down it.
The following day we hatched a plan to go up the coast and do some shopping along the way. We were thwarted in this ambition by the lack of left luggage facilities along the way. Our initial intention had been to go into Folkestone, only to discover that there is no longer a M&S there. A chat with our taxi driver on the way to the station revealed why: last time I was in Folkestone, in 1983, it was a thriving town, but these days it’s virtually dead. This is entirely due to the Channel Tunnel, the ensuing death of the Folkestone-Boulogne ferry route, and the lack of through traffic. Dover was our next plan, but again, nowhere to leave our luggage prevented us from doing so. We continued up to Sandwich, where we’re staying at the ancestral pile for three nights.
After settling in, we headed up the road in the evening, at mother’s insistence, to go and get dinner at the Blue Pigeons. Formerly a rather scruffy pub, it was updated to a bistro a couple of decades ago, and has undergone yet again a more recent transformation into a much bigger restaurant a few years ago. It’s quite good, and we’ll be back there again to try it on Saturday night when Heide comes down to stay.
Today, we’re going to try shopping again, this time in Canterbury, taking the bus.
















