Vivaldi

Our final full day in Venice is a free day. Unfortunately, the weather is still custard, so we didn’t venture out much to explore the city. We took a quick look at the Rialto Bridge in the morning, then headed back to the Doge’s Palace, this time to go around the Marco Polo exhibition. Marco Polo is one of Venice’s most famous sons, and the exhibition showed his life, journeys, artefacts from his trips (or “souvenirs”, as we call them), and was generally informative. Unfortunately no photography is allowed inside the exhibition. 

Rialto Bridge in the rain

Still raining, we found Ristorante Piccolo Martini, who were able to furnish us with a lunch of spaghetti and pizza.

At five o'clock we assembled for a short walk to the Grand Canal, from where we took gondola rides in groups of five. It had stopped raining by this stage, so it was quite pleasant. We just did a short round-the-block trip, without any singing...I guess you have to pay extra for that.

In the evening we had a dinner of traditional Italian snacks – hors d’oeuvres if you will – crostini, deep-fried olive balls, various pastries, schmoked schalmon schandwichesch* (v. traditional!) and the like.  

We then went along the road to see a Vivaldi concert. Antonio Vivaldi is another famous son of Venice, born here in 1678. As such, there’s a lot of Vivaldi going on at any one time, and it turns out tonight that there are in fact two events. We walked to the wrong one. Hugely apologetic, Bonnie turned us all around and took us to the correct venue, with actually plenty of time to spare, as we’d set out knowing the walking pace of our group and had ample time built in. This didn’t stop one of our group getting lost on the way, so, with five minutes to spare, we took our seats whilst Bonnie combed the streets of Venice for her. Fortunately she was found and took her seat after the first couple of numbers.

The first act was various bits of Vivaldi, and Pachelbel mixed in as well; the second half was The Four Seasons. All the players were dressed in period costume, which can’t have been easy, but I guess they do this all the time.

It started to rain as we walked home, so we picked up the pace and made it without getting too wet. This is our last night in Venice, we’re on the road again tomorrow!

 

* Said in a Sean Connery voice

Murano/Burano

Today’s adventure takes us to two of Venice’s outlying islands, one of which I’ve heard of, and one of which I ain’t. Murano is world famous for its glass. Burano is less world famous for its lace. The islands of Curano, Durano, Furano etc. all sank during the Great Island Plague of 1844.

It was raining as we breakfasted, but appeared to slacken off as we made the short walk to the jetty on the Grand Canal. Indeed, it started to brighten up. We boarded our transport – larger than the water taxis we arrived in, and were all able to get on the one boat – and headed across the lagoon to Murano.

Murano is known for its glass, and our first stop was at a glass-making factory. We watched the artists at work, including the new apprentice, whilst our guide explained the history, the processes, and how the art is now in decline – they have only eight glass blowers now. We then went into the shop for the sales pitch, as he explained all about the properties and uniqueness of each piece, and that we get 40% off for buying in the shop now. This included gold- and platinum-plated glass sets, and also glasses that are self-righting if you knock them over…a bit like Weebles. Nicola found a turtle that she liked and after some negotiation we got it for a reasonable price.

Artist at work. Note the shirt

We walked around the rest of the island, finding loads of shops which all sell glass in all its different forms, but making no further purchases. The weather remained inclement so by the time we were ready to embark we boarded quickly, and set out to stop two.

Burano is the poor relation of Murano. We stopped for lunch first, where we had risotto followed by mixed grilled fish (sole, monkfish, sea bass and prawn), accompanied by – yes! – salad! Washed down with a Venetian white wine. Afterwards we went walking around the town, which is notable for its brightly-painted houses. The reason and origins of this custom aren’t clear, but one thing is: if it wasn’t for this fact, the place would be a dump. 

There was a fashion shoot going on when we were there

We left Burano, and motored back to the Grand Canal. Our mooring was at the far end so we had a bit of a walk to get back to the hotel, during which we managed to get lost. Our map helpfully doesn’t have street names, only the names of the largest landmarks and squares. We eventually found our way, but only had a little bit of time before we were back out to Teatro La Fenice for tonight’s opera.

Mefistofele is Arrigo Boito’s only completed opera. Who he? Well, amongst other things, he was librettist to Verdi, who’s, like, famous as. He wrote the words to Otello and Falstaff. 

Mefistofele tells the story of Faust, but from the viewpoint of the devil who had a bet with God (ain’t he a charmer?), that he could tempt Faust to sell his soul. It appeared that Mefistofele wasn’t ready to appear on stage, as the first thing he did was take his clothes off and have a shower, whilst the orchestra played the prologue. That’s opera for you! The later stages were also prepared and choreographed very well, particularly the witches sabbath. There appeared to be a cast of thousands – indeed, when it came to the curtain call, I’m sure the cast outnumbered the audience, as there were various choruses of children, angels, witches, and, er, other unspecified folk; a ballet troupe; and all the main characters.

It was all jolly entertaining, and the cast kept coming back for more curtain calls. This, it transpired, was because it was in fact the last performance.

Venice

Our hotel in Venice is the Saturnia & International. Quite why it has that & is not explained. From talking to some of the other guests, it seems it is partway through modernising – we have card access to our room, but some are wielding enormous keys, and some don’t have USB ports. On the other hand, they have a view. Our view is of the building next to us’ wall.

After breakfast, we went for a guided walk around Venice with Michaela. The weather forecast wasn’t too flash, so we dressed appropriately. We went first to the Piazzetta Di San Marco, then into the Doge's Palace, which contains various audience, senatorial and consiglieri chambers; all covered in more art than you can shake a stick at, by names that you’ve heard before – Tintoretto, Canaletto, and various others who sound like types of pasta. Michaela also told us about the “lion mouths” – post boxes where you could write letters denouncing your neighbours for such sins as not paying taxes, or treason. We also saw the Grande Sale, or Big Room to you and me, where the entire council made up of all nobles over the age of 25 would meet. It is, indeed, a big room – the biggest in the world at the time it was built. There were various clocks around the place - including a 24-hour clock which demonstrates that our understanding of "clockwise" is in fact a fairly modern convention. We then passed over the Bridge of Sighs on the way to the dungeons, before returning over the Bridge of Sighs (of relief!) to return to the main square, Piazza Di San Marco.

Art by Tintoretto

An anti-clockwise 24-hour clock

 

I'm all a-quiver

The big pointy thing

At this point we broke for lunch. We found a café just off the main square for some nourishment, then reconvened to tour St. Mark’s Basilica, which contains many wonders, some of which had been “borrowed” from Constantinople during the 4^th Crusade. Much of it was legitimately made, though, and there are a lot of mosaics. We went up to the museum on the upper level to admire more mosaics, and also the four Horses of Saint Mark, originally made as early as 5^th century BC, but no-one’s really sure. Again, taken from Constantinople, and displayed on the loggia of the Basilica for many years, but now housed indoors for conservation purposes. The four horses which are now outside are replicas.

 

We met up with some of our group in the now-rainy square, and made our way back towards the hotel. We stopped along the way for a guided tour of Teatro Le Fenice, the opera house where we will see Mefistofele tomorrow. Our guide, Christina, told us all about the history of the opera house, including how and why it burned down so many times (the most recent being an attempted scam by electricians trying to avoid penalty clauses in their contracts for finishing their work late), and how the décor of the theatre was decided and executed. This includes a chandelier, originally a gift from the British royal family and made in Liverpool; sadly lost in the fire of 1996, and now replicated locally. We had a look in some of the boxes which don’t have as good a view as the stalls, apart from those at the back; and also at the ballroom on the 3^rd floor.

That concluded our tour and we returned to the hotel for a well-earned rest. Tonight we were due to go on a gondola ride but, given the weather, this has been postponed for a couple of days in the hope that meteorological conditions improve.

We will be dining in the restaurant tonight in a private room, and again listening to the vocal stylings of Bonnie and Kelly.

Verdi

We left Genova for Venice, our home for the next four nights. This involves crossing from west to east across the top of Italy, and as we were driving we had views of the snow-topped mountains to the north.

We stopped off on the way at Le Roncole, birthplace of Giuseppe Verdi. We saw his family’s home, where his father was the village drug dealer innkeeper, and licensed alcohol and tobacco seller. At age 10 he went to school in Busseto, the nearest town,  arranged by his patron Antonio Barezzi who’d heard him playing the organ at his local church (a paid job he’d had since he was eight) and, recognising his talent, sponsored his schooling. Barezzi later became Verdi’s father-in-law, when Verdi married his daughter. Le Roncole is also home to Giovannino Guareschi, author of Don Camillo.

 

The Verdi house

We then drove the short distance to Busetti itself, toured the opera house there then had lunch at an osteria that served food in the traditional way – no cutlery, no glasses for wine. We drank the local wine out of cups, and ate salumi, bread and cheese with our hands. It was a very meat-heavy meal – even the cheese selection was minuscule.

The Verdi opera house

After lunch, we went to the only part of Barezzi’s home which is still preserved – as a performance hall. There were heard a trio – harp, flute and double bass – accompany a soprano in a number of arias from Italian operas, with Bonnie joining in at one stage to accompany O Sole Mio.

The final leg of our journey brought us to Venice. One approaches the beautiful, historic canal city of Venice through what can be best described as an industrial wasteland, culminating in a water taxi from the equally industrial docks. We wound our way through the narrow canals to our hotel – taking a back way in which involved negotiating passage past some gondolas where there was squeaking room only. This was to deliver us to the water-level luggage entrance of the hotel, so we didn’t have to lug our luggage through the streets, but were met by burly porters who did all the heavy lifting.

Night was falling by the time we were ensconced in our room so instead of going out into the gloaming to explore, we decided to dine informally in the hotel’s bar. Several of our fellow guests had clearly arrived at the same decision so we joined them for dinner.

 

Aquarium

Genova is a city with a long maritime tradition. It makes sense that it has a substantial water zoo – at the time it opened, it was the second-largest in the world, but has since been overtaken by various Chinese and Middle Eastern projects, including one in a shopping mall in Dubai.

After breakfast, we took a bus down towards the port, and the aquarium. It’s only a 10 minute walk away, but the bus had been laid on. At the aquarium we were issued with a ticket and told to be back at the entrance by 12 noon, and were then left to our own devices.

 

When you swim in the sea and an eel bites your knee that's...

We walked around, saw manatees, seals, sharks and dolphins in the bigger tanks and pools, and also all the usual suspects in smaller tanks. There was also a reptile and amphibian section, mainly pythons, tortoises and frogs.

A manatee

Piranhas

Crap penguin photography

Danger noodle

At noon we met up with the rest of the gang and went for lunch – a typical Ligurian lunch at I Tre Merli. It contained no seafood so I’d argue it wasn’t that typical, being ravioli in cream sauce followed by tacchina – salted turkey – with the inevitable roasted potatoes. Washed down with the house red it was acceptable enough. At this point we were grateful for the bus, as our hotel is uphill from the port, so a short ride up was in order.

In the afternoon, after a brief sojourn for laundry, we went shopping in the local area.

In the evening we dined at the hotel in a private room, with performances from our hosts, Kelly and Bonnie. Both are accomplished singers and performers, and they gave us renditions of show tunes between courses. 

Genova

Genova is a port city, again with a long pedigree – it’s one of the longest continuously inhabited cities in the world, going back to the 5^th millennium BC. It was an equal ally of Rome during the Punic Wars, and was subsequently absorbed into the Roman Empire. Between the 11^th and 18^th centuries it was one of the most powerful maritime powers. All of this is reflected in the buildings and palazzos around the old port.

We’re staying in the Bristol Palace Hotel – a 5-star Art Nouveau establishment on Via XX Septembre in the heart of the old city. Beautifully restored with marble floors, period furniture, and an ellipsoid staircase spanning six floors which allegedly inspired Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo. And, unlike our previous hotel in Florence, you can actually see things.

That staircase, though

After breakfast we assembled downstairs for a walking tour of Genoa, led by our guide Paula…who was wrapped up to the nines as if expecting a Southerly gale! The sun was shining and, OK, it was a bit brisk at the beginning of our walk, but really? Anyway, she took us on a medieval walk around the city, pointing out many of the things that we’d seen yesterday but also looking into the nooks and crannies, showing us Christopher Columbus’ house, churches and palazzi, some long-established shops, and ending at the Teatro Carlo Felice Opera House. She also explained why there were so many George crosses decorating the place - apparently it belonged to Genoa long before Richard I appropriated it.

Christopher Columbus woz ere

 

Whose flag is it anyway?

The big church

Inside the big church

A secret garden

The fountain in Piazza De Ferrari (Smith's Square)

At the Opera House she handed us over to Anna, who gave us a tour and talk including a glimpse of the backstage area – usually completely off-limits to the public. The original 19^th century opera house was damaged by Allied bombing during WW2, and whilst it was repaired several times, ultimately they decided that this was unsustainable in the long run, bowled it completely, and rebuilt it in a more modern style. The new opera house reopened in 1991 and has many design features such as three interchangeable stages which allow very elaborate production design. We’ll see how that pans out tonight.

There was a further visit available for the Palazzo Rosso, but we decided to skip that in favour of lunch. We’d been advised by Kelly that there was a square a little further down Via XX Septembre that had lots of little eateries in it. We headed down there and found that whilst technically true, what she was describing was essentially the Italian version of Lambton Square: many of the eateries were of other nationalities’ cuisines, and it was a communal eating area. Not quite what we were after, so we wandered a little further along, down one of the streets leading off the main drag, and found ourselves a nice little café called Don'Cola, with an outdoor seating area where we were able to get a decent lunch of gnocchi, spada with pistachio crust, and salad; all washed down with local wine and beer.

Lambton Square Eatery

After lunch we took the ascensore up to a higher level of the city for the views out over the city and towards the harbour.

In the evening we headed down to the hotel bar for cocktails, before making the three minute walk around the corner to the Opera House for their production of La Bohème.

 

Getting to Genova

We had high hopes…

We were all assembled at 8:15. Maybe, just maybe, we could beat the traffic and get out before gridlock set in in Florence; but there was a mix-up between luggage shuttle buses (our big touring bus isn’t allowed down Florence’s delicate streets, so we always have to rendezvous outside the Carrefour Express about five minutes away, and it was 9:10 before we actually got under way.

 The day started out bright and fine, and we admired the Tuscan countryside as we rolled on down the Autostrada. But dark clouds loomed on the horizon – quite literally – and by the time we arrived at Sestri Levante, a small town in Liguria, it was raining. Not exactly pissing down, but enough to dissuade us from admiring the town in anything more than a perfunctory manner. After a brief retail interlude for Italian clothing, we stopped at a trattoria and had our first seafood of our trip, as we are now by the sea! Spaghetti di mare was fresh and excellent, and Nicola had ravioli.

Our next stop towards Genova was at San Marguerita, where we were also expecting to take a ferry to Portofino. The ferry operator had called us whilst we were en route to let us know that ferry operations had been cancelled for the day because of the weather, so we went instead to find a local church which was excessively decorated inside, in the catholic style; and followed that with hot chocolate, again in the Italian style – a thick, creamy custard-like concoction topped with whipped cream.

San Maguerita on a rainy day

We arrived at the Bristol Palace at around 4:00pm, and were soon ensconced in our room. The palace is 5-star establishment, with such features as “light” (difficult to find at our previous hotel), and of course fully functioning plumbing, walk-in shower, robes, slippers, all that mullarkey. We’re staying here for three nights.

Once unpacked we went out to explore the local area. There’s a walking tour tomorrow, so full details then, but we walked past a lot of big old buildings, commenting “there’s a thing”, and we’ll find out more about them in the morning. We checked out some restaurants and decided on one, but like most of the restaurants here it didn’t open until 7:00pm. No matter, we found the Soho Restaurant and Lounge Bar, and settled in there for some cocktails – pink spritz for Nicola, and, finally, a Negroni for me. We’ve been out and so busy of an evening that we haven’t really had time to stop for cocktails – it’s been wine wine wine all the way – so this was the first chance we’d had. It was goooood.