Tenby

Whilst we’d explored Tenby on foot on Saturday, we decided we wanted to know more about it; so we booked ourselves onto the Historic Tenby walking tour for Monday morning. Us, two more from our house, and six other people met our guide, Marion, at 1030 by the church, and the tour began.

It wasn’t a huge amount of walking (cf. our tour of Seville) but was so arranged that the historical timeline was followed, and dated from the first mention of Tenby in the Dark Ages, medieval times, visitations from the great and the good and not-so-good; we started in the church and found the memorial to Robert Recorde, inventor of the = sign and writer of The Urinal Of Physick. 

We talked about the building of the fort and city wall, its strategic position and natural harbour, and how the wall was modified and defended. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, the town, decimated by plague, went into decline. It wasn’t until the rise of sea-bathing as a fashionable pastime at the beginning of the 19th century that the town’s fortunes were revived, and the seafront quickly became built-up with large houses which remain to this day. At some point it became fashionable to paint in pastel shades and this remains the style of the seafront: 

The introduction of a railway line further enhanced the town’s tourist trade, and nowadays Tenby is completely reliant on tourism.

One of the many features of the housing our guide pointed out is the Hanging Toilets of Tenby. In the days before indoor plumbing was the norm, a type of garderobe was attached to the side or back of some buildings, similar to those found on castle walls. Unlike the ones on castles, which simply had a hole directly over a cesspit, these hanging toilets had a pipe to take waste down. Later, they were fully plumbed in. Nowadays of course all the buildings have indoor toilets, but because of their historical importance, if there is one on the side of your building you must maintain it and cannot remove it – it has listed protection. Here’s a hanging toilet: 

So far as I can find, no-one else came up with this solution, so the Hanging Toilets of Tenby are the eighth wonder of the world.

We finished the tour conveniently close to lunchtime, so decided to try one of the many local restaurants and cafés for lunch, and settled on Plantagenet, where I had some Pembroke oysters followed by scallops.

We met up with Jonathan and Kathryn, our hosts, back at the car and then returned to Waterwynch for an evening of unbridled debauchery.

 

 

Getting Here

We’re in Tenby, at the start of our two-month-plus European adventure. How did we get here? Easy peasy. Taxi to Wellington Airport. Flight to Auckland. Flight to Singapore. Flight to London Heathrow. Collected by Nicola’s sister. Overnight in Marlow. Lift to Maidenhead station. Train to Reading. Train to Swansea. Train to Tenby. Oh, wait, not that last one.

When we arrived in Swansea we were informed there would be a rail replacement service from Carmarthen to all points further. This is an occupational hazard when travelling by train. The only trouble was when we arrived at Carmarthen, one mini-coach had been laid on for the nearer stations, and there was supposed to be another for the further stations, including Tenby. We waited. We waited some more. After a while, we consulted with station staff, and after much toing and froing it transpired that the second coach had been cancelled by the coach company, without actually informing anyone. They told us it would take another hour before they could arrange another coach, and we were better off waiting for the next Tenby train, which would actually be running. It appears trains run once about every three hours to Tenby – it’s not what you’d call a frequent service. So we waited some more, and eventually, after almost three hours, we were able to continue our journey, and arrive at Tenby. A taxi took us the final yards to our destination, Waterwynch.

This is why I hate travelling by train.

Anyway, we’re here now, and settled in, and have met all the other guests (most of whom I’ve met already, and Nicola has known for decades). The place is a former hotel, so all the rooms are ensuite and there is ample kitchen space and equipment, a bar, a full-size snooker table, and many other wonders and accoutrements including a private beach. Here’s the view: 

Not bad at all. Next, we will explore the town of Tenby…until next time.

Spring Symphony

Live music is back, and Orchestra Wellington have announced a programme of events which we will be attending as much as we can (it will be interrupted by our travels to the Northern Hemisphere). On Saturday night, we headed in to town to see three pieces:

Overture in C (Fanny Mendelssohn)

The All-seeing-Sky (Ioannis John Psathas)

Symphony No.1 “Spring” (Robert Schumann)

I formulated a cunning plan to stop off in Hataitai for a bite to eat before the concert. One of our favourite eateries, BambuchiSan, has cut back its opening hours so severely that we haven’t been there since ages ago. But Saturday night they’re open – yippee! Unfortunately, they were also fully booked – boo! So that plan was foiled, and instead we went to The Realm, which served us so-so food. 

We arrived in town and parked at Te Papa, then made our way to the Michael Fowler Centre. The first piece, by Felix Mendelssohn’s older sister, who was considered equally as gifted as her brother; but, living in the 19^th century, didn’t get the recognition she deserved. The second piece is more modern – indeed, the composer is still with us – and played on two instruments, the marimba and the vibraphone, with the orchestra. The two soloists, Fabian Ziegler and Lucas Staffelbach, have worked closely with OW composer-in-residence Psathas before. This is the world premiere for the piece.

In case you don’t know the difference between a vibraphone and a marimba, this is a vibraphone: 

And this is a marimba:

They look fairly similar. The vibraphone is smaller, though, and also has a foot-pedal which can be, er, pedalled.

The final piece was Schumann’s No.1 “Spring” Symphony. Why they were playing it in autumn wasn’t made clear. Still, they played away, and all managed to finish at the same time, which is always an accomplishment.

When Booty Calls

As life returns to quasi-normal (we’re still under the Orange Covid traffic light setting here), we can now go back to theatres. We’re supposed to wear masks throughout, but everyone I saw took theirs off as soon as they sat down.

BATS Theatre have a show called When Booty Calls, an action romcom with pirates. What’s not to like? We haven’t been to BATS for a while, but this is just the sort of thing at which they excel. Liz and Jen are pirates, marooned ashore after a battle in which they’ve decided that the pirate’s life is not for them. They have to overcome other pirates, love, lust, kraken, and poison to reach the end of the show. It’s very silly, but well-written with great fight scenes and frequent breaking of the fourth wall.

Afterwards we went for dinner at Capitol. Again, we’ve not been there for quite a while, due mainly to their restricted opening hours over the last few months. I asked about this and was delighted to hear that not only will they be opening for lunch again soon, but also that they have a new venture starting at Wellington Zoo, of all places. We’ll keep an eye out on these to see how they go.

…And Relax (A Bit)

Today’s announcement of the relaxation of some rules around Covid provide a bit of relief to the beleaguered hospitality and entertainment industries. Not much, but a bit. From Saturday 26^th March, we will still be under the red traffic light setting, but…

·         Indoor gatherings can increase from 100 to 200 people

·         Outdoor gatherings are now unlimited

·         Masks no longer required outdoors

·         QR code scanning is no longer required

And from 5^th April…

·         Vaccine passes no longer required

·         Mandates for certain sectors to be vaccinated (all except health and aged care, border workers and corrections) to be removed.

The traffic light setting will also be reviewed on 4^th April.

Hooray! Unfortunately, this is too late to help Ladyhawke, who has decided to cancel (rather than postpone again) her Time Flies tour ☹. Hopefully, by the time of Midnight Oil’s gig on 10 May, restrictions will have been loosened further to allow indoor concerts to take place.

Moves were already afoot ahead of today’s announcement to get back to pub quiz, as this is still allowable under the red setting, but with a maximum 100 people. This was cancelled by the pub and quizmaster as they wanted to protect themselves as much as possible. The new 200-person limit is higher than the capacity of the Old Bailey, so no worries there.

This also means that the remaining matches of the cricket World Cup and Super Rugby can be played with no restrictions. Sadly, the White Ferns have not been doing too well so it looks unlikely that they’ll make the semi-finals, so we won’t be seeing them in action again. We may look at going to see the Hurricanes in action, though.

 With any luck, the next announcement will see a move to Orange setting, and things will get back to neo-normal.

 

  

Cricket World Cup

The ICC Women’s Cricket World Cup is under way in New Zealand. There are, in fact, three world cups happening here over the next two years – cricket, rugby and football – of which this is the first. The Basin Reserve in Wellington is a key venue for the competition, so, last year, I took advantage of an earlybird offer to get tickets for all the Wellington matches for a bargain price.

Then New Zealand moved to Covid red traffic light, and all bets were off. Initially, the restriction was a maximum of 100 spectators per match, so all tickets were refunded. Bugger. Since then, spectator numbers have been relaxed, firstly to 10% of a venue’s maximum capacity, and then, by the look of the crowd on Sunday, quietly ignored altogether. As a previous ticket-holder, I was offered tickets prior to the general public, and so we decided to go and see the White Ferns take on Australia. For the price, I might add, of half the total that I paid for seven matches earlier.

The weather wasn’t that great, but it wasn’t raining, just cloudy and grey and with a nagging Southerly keeping us cool, so we were wearing fleeces in the stands. The White Ferns had won the toss and elected to bowl first. They started out strongly, keeping the run rate down at around 3.5 and taking three early wickets to leave the Aussies on 56/3 in the fifteenth over. It looked like we had them on the run, and WASP had gone up to 54% (from a pre-match 26%). Unfortunately, the Aussies didn’t panic, and just carried on accumulating runs, slowly at first, but picking up the pace for a fourth wicket stand of 57, and a fifth wicket 101, which really did the damage. Even so, with Australia on 214/5, and five overs to go, restricting them to a reasonable score was still feasible.

Or it would have been, if the new batter hadn’t been Gardner. She came in and swatted 48 off 18 deliveries, and even though those around her lost their wickets, this took them to a final score of 269/8, leaving the White Ferns a target of 270 to win.

270 isn’t an impossible target, but unfortunately, Australia also have the best bowling attack in the competition. This probably accounts for them being No.1 in the world rankings, favourites to win the competition, and so far unbeaten. Wickets fell quickly and regularly and it soon became apparent, despite a valiant effort from Satterthwaite batting at 4 and accumulating 44 runs, the failure of the top order (Devine 6 and Melie Kerr 1) meant that too much was asked of the lower batters and bowlers. Wickets fell regularly, and when Satterthwaite was caught it was pretty much all over. The White Ferns were bowled out for 128 in the 31st over.

This leaves them fourth in the round robin stage of the competition, and they really need to win their next three matches. Fortunately, they’re against England and Pakistan, who have so far failed to win a single match between them; less fortunately, they must play South Africa, who are also unbeaten so far.

Border Announcement

The New Zealand government are relaxing the rules around Managed Isolation/Quarantine (MIQ) for New Zealanders. This is effectively re-opening the borders of New Zealand. This will be done in a phased approach, with New Zealanders in Australia able to return home from February 27^th, and from other countries from March 13, without the need to enter MIQ, but self-isolating at home.

Yippee!

This is the news we’ve been waiting for, as our trip to the Northern hemisphere is dependent on being able to get back to New Zealand afterwards. It involves self-isolating on return, and taking and submitting RAT results on day 0 and day 5. The self-isolation period by then should only be one week, or may (optimistic scenario) have been abandoned altogether – the isolation period will remain under review.

OK, time to start some serious planning now…